AMAZING PACIFIC 4: Kayaking on the Blue Lagoon

Taking a kayak and floating from island to island driven only by the strength of your arms – that’s just one of those things you have to do, at least once in your lifetime. Some come to Aitutaki once every year to do just that. It’s easy for them – they live in New Zeeland, only 3500 km away.

The Aitutaki lagoon spreads on 40 km from North to South and is considered one of the best top 10 places where you can go kayaking. It shelters 17 islands, from which only one is inhabited all the time – the big one. On the other islands you can find either small resorts, either bungalows, either crabs or palm trees. Today I’m sending you to three deserted islands.

Ootu Beach and Aitutaki

The ideal base for kayak rides is Ootu Beach, situated in the North-East side of the big island – that we’ll generically name Aitutaki. Here you can find 3 places to stay: Ranginui’s Retreat (where we stayed), Popoara Rentals (owned by a nice New-Zeeland guy) and Samade on the Beach (quite nice, but none of the bungalows were on the beach). The prices, following negotiations, reach 50 to 70 euros per night, not including breakfast. Kayaking is included.

The best time for going on expedition is – fortunately – in the morning. You wake up at 7.30, have some breakfast, drink your coffee and lay around for about one hour – as it’s not smart to row with a full belly. Pack some sandwiches in a plastic bag, together with a towel, a camera, and at least one liter of water for each rower (in case you’re taking a double kayak make it two liters). Pack up the plastic bag really well, but leave some air in, in case it falls into the water it would be best if it floated. Also take snorkeling equipment, beach cream with a high protection factor (I’d say 30 is good), reef footwear and a mosquito repellant.

8.30 is an excellent time to get going. The wind blows from the North side (I’ve carefully studied the phenomenon) so it will gently push you from behind. Row for about 10 minutes and go around Akituia, the island across from the main one, which holds Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa. I’ll tell you all about it some other time. Just because you can, row alongside the beach, under the eyes of those who pay from 400 to 1000 euros per night here, just to see your tanned muscles. After you pass the water villas, steer South and keep going.

Angarei and Ee

The next island is called Angarei and it will take you 30 minutes of rowing to get there. On the North side (the ones you’re coming from) there are two small beaches. Stop here to gain your breath and swim a little in the clear and refreshing water (it’s just a little over 9, it’s not hot yet). You’ll notice a hut behind the beach. It belongs to the locals which own the island. They won’t bother you, because they’re almost never there. They come from time to time to fish and pick coconuts. Are you rested? Let’s keep going.

Go around Angarei through the West side. After 30 more minutes of relaxed rowing, you’ll reach Ee Island. You’ll notice a white beach. Come closer. It’s just a small spit of sand, behind which there’s a micro lagoon. This is the way things are here. A big lagoon in which there are small islands which also have their own lagoons, even smaller. After all, we all have our own lagoons, right? Set aside one hour to explore Ee. In front of the beach there are big peaces of coral filled with colored fish. Half an hour of snorkeling amongst them plus half an hour of tanning in the super-ultra morning violets and you’ll forget where you left from. Before you get going, drink some water, because you’ll dehydrate without even realizing it. Oh, and I almost forgot: the island is deserted. The only people you might meet on the island are other kayakers.

Continue your ride on the channel between Angarei and Ee. Neither the wind, nor the sea current get here – the water is clear and calm like the one in your bathtub back home. Go to the end of the channel, admire the red crabs – and the hermit crabs that saunter on the beach, then go back and head south, going alongside Ee.

Ea is quite long. It will take you around 20 minutes to reach its end. The next island – the last one on today’s agenda – is called Mangere. The channel between Ee and Mangere is wider and you’ll have to fight off some monster waves, at least… 10 cm high. If you can handle the challenge, paddle away and get to the Mangere beach. What is there to do here? I have no idea… It’s just a deserted island, with palm trees, crabs and white sand… Don’t forget to drink your water afterwards.

It’s already afternoon and the wind started to shift direction. Now it blows from South-East. Yeah, exactly how it should blow so you can go back home without having to fight off the waves. If everything goes according to plan, in about an hour you’ll be back on Ootu Beach. 2 kilos lighter – or 3, if you forgot to drink water, a tad tanner and owning quite the bragging trophy: you went around the deserted island of Aitutaki, paddling on a kayak.

What?! You forgot to take pictures? It’s ok, tomorrow you’ll start over.